Archive for 20 March 2010

The Process of Growing Tobacco for the Finest Cigar Construction

A Cigar is a natural product and the quality of a cigar is directly linked with the type and quality of tobacco used in its production, just as the wine depends on the type and quality of grapes used for the brewing.

The fields for tobacco are flat so that the seeds don’t flow away with the water stream. After planting the seed, they are covered with cloth or straw to protect them from the direct light of the sun. This covering is gradually removed as they begin to germinate, and after around 35 days the fields are sprayed with pesticides, they are then transplanted in to tobacco fields usually in the second half of October. The fields are irrigated from below and the leaves are watered both by rain and the morning dew.

The tobacco plant is mainly considered as a three parts plant: the top of the plant is called corona, the middle, and the bottom. As the leaves grow, buds appear at the top. These have to be removed by hand to prevent the plants from stunting leaf and growth. The quality of wrapper leaf is very important for any cigar. A special type of plant called Corojos, specifically used to provide wrapper leaves for the very best cigars. These plants are always grown under gauze sheets held up by tall wooden poles, which protects them from becoming too thick in a protective response to sunlight. Another technique, called tapado can also be used to cover the plants to helps them remain smooth.

During the harvest, leaves are removed by hand using a single movement. The selected leaves for wrappers are put in bundles of five called manojo, or hand. The leaves are picked in six phases:

libra de pie (at the base) uno y medio (one-and-a-half) centro ligero (light center) centro fino (thin center) centro gordo (thick center) corona (crown)

The libra de pie section cannot be used for wrappers. A gap of one week is given between each phase. The finest leaves are found in the middle of the plant; the top leaves (corona) are usually too oily to be used for wrappers so they are only used for domestic consumption, and are often used as binder leaves. Each plant is visited for an average of 170 times and the whole cycle from transplanted seedlings to the end of harvesting takes some 120 days.

The wrapper leaves grown under cover are classified by color:

ligero (light)

seco (dry)

viso (glossy)

amarillo (yellow)

medio tiempo (half texture)

quebrado (broken)

The plants, which are grown direct sun, are divided into volado, seco, ligero, and medio tiempo. The leaves from the top of the plant have a very strong flavor, the seco from the middle are much lighter, and the volado leaves from the bottom are used to add bulk and for their burning qualities. To make a good quality cigar, all the various types are blended together, along with a suitable wrapper leaf, in a special proportions to give cigar a mild, medium, or full flavor. It also ensures that the cigar will burn well. Large, average, small size are classified and by physical condition. Unhealthy or broken leaves are used for cigarettes or machine-made cigars. If all the leaves are good, each wrapper plant can wrap 32 cigars. The condition and quality of the wrapper leaf is important for the attractive appearance of a cigar, as well as for the aroma and taste.

The bundles of leaves are then taken to a shelter. The shelter faces west so that the sun heats one end in the morning and the other in the late after-noon. The temperature and humidity under the shelter is carefully controlled, by opening and closing the doors at both ends to take account of changes of temperature or rainfall. The leaves are left to dry for between 45 and 60 days, depending on the weather. During this time, the green chlorophyll in the leaves turns to brown carotene, giving them their characteristic color.

Then these are brought to fermentation houses and placed in piles about three feet high, covered with jute. Enough moisture remains in the leaves to start the fermentation. Heat develops, but the temperature must be watched carefully so that it does not exceed 92 degrees F during the 35 to 40 days that the piles are left intact. The leaves assume a uniform color.

These leaves are then sorted and stripped. Each leaf is carefully examined and graded. Broken leaves are set aside, to be used for cigarettes.
The leaves then return to the fermentation area. The second fermentation begins within the damp leaves. The temperature inside must not exceed 110 degrees F for around 60 days. Because of the fermentation process, cigar tobacco is much lower in acidity, tar, and nicotine than cigarette tobacco, making it much more appetizing.

It is now time for the leaves to be sent to the factories or warehouses for further production.

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Thompson cigar hit the jackpot, and managed to rise to a successful retailer in US. As all success stories, Thompson cigar had a secret; giving the consumers the most choices possible, with all the prices, shapes, tastes and sizes imaginable.

Thompson cigar started labeling their own cigars to give their clients the assurance they were so certain of the quality of the cigar, that they were going to put their name on it. People loved Thompson cigar for that, not only because they now could smoke surely a fine quality cigar, but because it was much more affordable. Pretty soon people started looking for the Thompson cigar brand and it acquired a solid and lasting reputation.

The service provided by Thompson cigar is impressive, and it was no simple task to accomplish. People came up asking for guidance, questions just poured in. What cigar was best? Which was stronger? What cigar could be a good gift? Which was the most affordable? What cigar had good ash? Instead of giving up or just ignoring the questions, Thompson cigar wanted clients curiosity satisfied and their questions answered. An army of specialized men and women, armed with all the knowledge of the cigar industry was assembled. Customers were simply thrilled. Cigar amateurs could be introduced to the marvelous world of cigar smoking and many felt comfortable knowing that Thompson cigar would not overwhelm them, but simply guide and help them make the best decision.

Quality is always in the mind of the Thompson cigar company, and have the largest humidor in America. Here, all the cigars are preserved fresh until it’s taken to the customers house. This is also very reassuring for the customers, as many retailers without such precautions sometimes give their customers dry cigars that are not good to smoke anymore. First time smokers will think that’s what a cigar should taste like and never want to repeat the smoking experience.

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The ABCs Of Cigar Humidors

Casual cigar owners often ask themselves: is a humidor really necessary? The answer is: only if you care about the quality and taste of your cigars.

After all, for some smokers, the after-dinner cigar is more symbolic than anything – a conspicuous display, perhaps, of taste and leisure, or a social or familial ritual. If, however, you smoke for taste – which is the best reason to smoke – you should probably invest in a humidor: a specially-constructed box designed to maintain your cigars in near-70% humidity and at a proper temperature when they’re not being smoked.

To understand why humidors are so important, remember what a cigar essentially is. It’s a set of rolled-up tobacco leaves that have been cut, dried, cured, and fermented, then maintained at a very slight but essential level of moisture. If the cigar dries out completely – as can happen in open air, at the wrong temperature, or in low humidity – it loses its taste. If it’s kept in an airtight environment, on the other hand, the necessary low level of moisture will, over time, cause mold. A cigar requires a very special set of conditions in order to maintain optimum taste.

The humidity in which cigars are stored is important because of the specific conditions in which most tobacco is grown. The natural climate for most such areas is in the neighborhood of 70% relative humidity; the tobacco plant has evolved for such a climate. Thus, humidity control is the sine qua non of a humidor – without that, it’s not a humidor but a box with cigars in it. Humidors are able to maintain a relatively consistent humidity level partly because of the relatively porous wood used to line them (Spanish cedar and Honduran mahogany are popular choices for this reason).

Most humidors also, of course, have some sort of device that maintains moisture levels; some use hygrometers, which indicate interior humidity. (Digital hygrometers tend to be more accurate, though they lack the old-fashioned appeal of dial hygrometers.)

When packing your humidor, make sure you leave some room between the cigars to allow air to circulate between them. (Again, you want to avoid an airtight fit, which would promote mold. On the other hand, too much empty space will allow that all-important humidity level to drop. Check on your cigars frequently, at least once a week, to ensure that nothing needs to be adjusted). The cigars should, at best, exude a small amount of oil when stored; this is a sign that the humidor is working. Slight amounts of water can be added if cigars start to dry out.

If your cigars suffer an attack of tobacco beetles – a species of beetle that preys on tobacco and can sometimes bore through a humidor – you’ve probably been keeping the temperature in the box a touch too high (tobacco beetles flourish at temperatures over 75 degrees.) Remove the affected cigars and put them in your freezer for 48 hours, then move them to your refrigerator for another day, following which they should be safely returnable to the humidor.

Spanish-cedar humidors are a popular choice. This wood, as mentioned above, holds moisture well, maintaining humidity, and it holds an aroma many consumers find pleasant and complementary to that of the cigars themselves. It’s also slightly favored for keeping tobacco beetles out, and it doesn’t warp in high humidity.

When you buy your humidor, “season” it by applying a moist cloth to the interior wood and then leaving a small, closed container of water inside the humidor for 12 hours. If the humidor “drinks up” most of the water, leaving the container near-empty after 12 hours, repeat the process for another 24 hours. Once the water stops evaporating, the humidor is ready for your cigars!

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